Banff National Park + The Icefields Parkway: Mountain Towns Are The Best!

 

As we started down the Icefields Parkway, I was excited to see what was in store for us. Jasper had been amazing, and even though the Parkway was known to be even more spectacular, it was hard to see what could be better. We only spent several hours on the road, but those were unforgettable.

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We started by winding around the valley between these massive snowy peaks. The snow line gradually crept closer and closer, until we rounded a corner and saw this:

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We pulled over for a photo and to take in the cold, fresh mountain air.

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After everyone got their pics, we moved on. The road quickly got steeper as it headed up to the Pass. Halfway up, we pulled off to the side to let everyone stretch their legs. The kids(and Spirit) had a fun time in the snow piles, while I looked out over the valley at the hanging glacier visible on the mountainside.

Spirit loves exploring the mountains!

Spirit loves exploring the mountains!

Further up the road the mountains closed in around us as we crossed a massive icy field. We also passed the Glacier Skywalk, a walkway that hung out over the snowy valley below. It was crowded with tourists and the day was getting on, so we did not stop. I was a bit disappointed, but quickly lost myself in the stunning scenery.

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The Columbia Icefield Centre, atop Sunwapta Pass, was a busy place. Tour buses rushed in and out of the parking lots, and groups of people bundled up in long coats wandered around. It was cold and windy up there, and the sky was torn with clouds. We were excited to check out the Discovery Centre, which had multiple exhibits about the park, but when we got there it was closed for the season. We had to keep going, so we drove off again, but not before snapping some pictures.

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Just past the Icefield Centre, the road quickly went down a huge pass into a narrow mountain valley. It went around a giant hairpin turn appropriately known as ‘Big Bend” that sent everyone into a spiral!

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The Parkway wound its way through the snow-covered Rockies, with new views around every curve. Being the family of photographers that we are, we were constantly jumping up to snap yet another picture out the window.

The Icefields Parkway winds through a valley with the Weeping Wall directly ahead.

The Icefields Parkway winds through a valley with the Weeping Wall directly ahead.

The Canadian Rockies are full of impressive, jagged peaks such as this one.

The Canadian Rockies are full of impressive, jagged peaks such as this one.

Bow Lake is one of many lakes that lay in the glacial valleys of Banff National Park.

Bow Lake is one of many lakes that lay in the glacial valleys of Banff National Park.

By the time we arrived at our campground in Banff, it was way after sunset. So we decided to explore the next day.

First off, we drove into the downtown area of Banff to make a stop at the rustic-looking Information Centre to find out where to hike. The main street was lined with shops and restaurants and full of people from all over. I heard several languages being spoken in the time we spent in town.

Downtown Banff: The classic cute mountain town.

Downtown Banff: The classic cute mountain town.

After getting the info we needed, the next stop was our hike: Tunnel Mountain Trail. Tunnel Mountain, which towers directly over Banff townsite and surrounding valley, was named by a railroad survey back in they day. They had originally planned to build a tunnel through the mountain to access the town, but realized they could just build it around instead. The name stuck, however, and Tunnel Mountain is a favorite of Banffanites.

#HikerBoy

#HikerBoy

The trail rose straight up the side of the mountain, going through switchback after switchback. It was a bit icy from the recent weather, but nothing too bad. once you got up to the top, the views popped out from between the trees.

The ubiquitous red chairs of Parks Canada on the summit of Tunnel Mountain.

The ubiquitous red chairs of Parks Canada on the summit of Tunnel Mountain.

On the one side you looked out over the town of Banff and the valley looking north. There were more red chairs on the summit, so you could sit and look out over the town.

Mount Rundle, frosted with snow and just covered by clouds, is impressive.

Mount Rundle, frosted with snow and just covered by clouds, is impressive.

On the other side, the imposing profile of Mount Rundle stood out in the foreground, with the rest of the Rockies lining the distance. A golf course lay nestled beneath the jagged rocks, standing out in a sea of evergreen trees.

After the hike, which was only about 2.5 miles overall, we went back into the town. We made a stop to get some coffee at Good Earth Coffee and found out they were having a open mic! Well of course we took part, with my dad going off for several songs and baby Izzy singing his own version of “Frosty The Snowman”.

Clint assists Leo and Emma with the mic on Open Mic Night.

Clint assists Leo and Emma with the mic on Open Mic Night.

The next day was a beautiful one. We took some time off, then drove out to Canada’s first National Park: Cave & Basin National Historic Park. Located near the city limits, Cave & Basin is a series of hot spring and pools, including an underground pool. A well-known spot to the natives for thousands of years, it was only considered for national park status when three railway workers discovered it and subsequently applied for ownership in 1883. The request was denied and the government took it over instead, protecting the fragile ecosystems from profiteers.

The entrance to the cave in inside a building, which doesn’t feel too natural, but once you step inside the actual cave you can feel the magic.

The “Cave”in Cave & Basin.

The “Cave”in Cave & Basin.

The air is warm and smells of sulfur. Apparently there are endangered snails that live here( The Banff Springs Snail is a freshwater snail that solely lives in the sulfur-heavy, oxygen-low pools that surround the area). There are only about 1500 left due to habitat loss, but are making a comeback.

My favorite exhibit of all time!

My favorite exhibit!

The attached museum was also really cool, with exhibits that featured a old VW Bug (pictured above),a lot of information on the history of Canada’s national parks, and a wall full of pictures off people from across the world.

Jack reading about one of the pools.

Jack reading about one of the pools.

The view from the top of the museum.

The view from the top of the museum.

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The marshes, home to many species of birds and fish.

The marshes, home to many species of birds and fish.

Can you spot the little fish?

Can you spot the little fish?


We walked on a nearby boardwalk that led down into the marsh, where we spotted a Banff Longnose Dace. A tiny and rare fish, it only lives here in the waters surrounding the hot springs. There were also many birds flying around, including a large flock of trumpeter swans that landed on the lake.

The light was unreal on the snowy mountains!

The light was unreal on the snowy mountains!

Incredible.

Incredible.

After we were done at Cave and Basin, we raced through town to catch the sunset at a place called Vermilion Lakes. It seemed to be the hot spot for photographers, as everybody was lining up to take the money shot of the backside of Mount Rundle lit up like a campfire.

Muskrat alert!

Muskrat alert!

And I saw another muskrat! This one was a friendly little fellow who swam up to us then did a couple loops and flips before disappearing under the water.

Yummy curry with noodles at Nourish Bistro!

Yummy curry with noodles at Nourish Bistro!

The whole fam! Well except for me that is.

The whole fam! Well except for me that is.

After a long afternoon exploring outside, we had to eat. And we choose an amazing spot called Nourish Bistro. This place had some delicious options including a great curry (pictured above), some amazing gnocchi, and a killer poutine. Poutine is like the official food of Canada, and we had all been waiting to try some ever since we found out what it was. It’s basically fries covered in gravy and sprinkled with cheese curds, which is as delicious as it sounds!

The hoodoos with Bow River and Mount Rundle in the background.

The hoodoos with Bow River and Mount Rundle in the background.

Just down the road from our campground, off on the side of the river, there were a couple hoodoos just chilling. We took a walk to look at them, and I couldn’t help thinking of the many hoodoos we saw in southern Utah and even the ones along the Alaska Highway. It’s crazy really, when you travel to all the places across the world you always spot the similarities to places you’ve known.

The Fairmont Banff Springs from Bow Falls viewpoint.

The Fairmont Banff Springs from Bow Falls viewpoint.

On the other side of the mountain lay Bow Falls, on the Bow River. It wasn’t much of a falls, or even a rapids. What was cool was the view of the grand hotel called Fairmont Banff Springs, that loomed like a castle over the river but was still dwarfed by the size of the surrounding peaks.

Clint capturing the mountains while balancing on a floating log.

Clint capturing the mountains while balancing on a floating log.

After doing some shopping in the town, we headed out to Vermillion Lakes for one last photography session.

The next day, we packed up and headed to Calgary, our last Canadian stop before re-entering the continental USA. We only stayed there for one day last time through, but would find out that there was a lot more to the city than meets the eye.

That’ll have to be next time around. Stay tuned!

Connor

 
Connor Malson